Another Slovenian first ascent in Patagonia
|Prispeval Peter Mikša|
|Petek, 25 Januar 2013 08:58|
Traverse of Torre Norte in Paine by Andrej Grmovšek and Luka Krajnc!
Before he counitnued his patagonian climbing in Fitz Roy area Luka Krajnc spent a month in Paine National park, Chile. With Andrej Grmovšek they had bold plans but the weather did not cooperate very much. At the first opportunity when the weather improved they tried to make a rapid ascent of Riders on the Storm (1200 m, 7c, A2) on Central Tower but they were caught again by the bad weather after 700 meters climbed and they had to retreat.
In the next - and the last - period of good weather Slovenian climbers tried to make traverse of all three Torres of Paine starting with Torre Norte. Andrej and Luka climbed the new route to the northern summit of Torre Norte and made traverse to other summit of the tower and then descended to col between Torre Norte and Torre Central. The weather started to get worsen ones more. They also spent more time completing the traverse than they expected, mostly due to a lot of soft snow and high winds. Below Central Tower Luka and Andrej decided to quit climbing, they returned to their base camp and awaited better weather conditions in vain until the end of the expedition.
Although they noticed that they did not climbed what they wanted, they made a first traverse (both summits) of Torre Norte. They named their traverese as Zuko traverse, and gaded it at V 5.10+, 650 m. They climbed it on the New Year's day, January 1st., 2013.
Photo by Krajnc and Grmovšek.