New Slovenian route in Fitz Roy

Prispeval Urban Golob   
Nedelja, 20 Januar 2013 07:48

Young climbers Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj in grand style via East face of the highest Patagonian mountain!

Slovenian climbers have added a new important ascent in Patagonia's Fitz Roy. Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj have climbed a new route in Goretta Pillar in the immediate vicinity of Hudičeva zajeda (Diedro del Diabolo), which started the expedition to grand Patagonian walls by legendary Slovenian alpinists Silvo Karo, Janez Jeglič and Franček Knez in 1983.

The ascent of Luka and Tadej in the new route named The Real Kekec began left of Diedro del Diabolo. They soon crossed it due to a single common pitch and continued right through Goretta Pillar. They graded this route as 6c+ and A2. Its height is 800 meters before it joins Casarotto route (1979) through which they finally reached the top. They climbed this paramount route in alpine stile, without jumars and bolts and they did not leave any gear in the place. During the ascent they bivacoued three times and ones during the descent.

Within the first short message they have described their ascent: »We were able to find wonderful climbing within a very steep and at times overhanging rock. It took three days and two bivouacs to reach the top of Goretta Pillar. At the top we bivouacked the third time and on the fourth day we reached the top of Fitz Roy via Cassarotto route. We descended via French route and have bivouacked for the fourth time in La Silla col. On the fifth day we descended to the base of the wall, collected the gear we left there before the ascent and continued out descend to Passo Superior. After three days of climbing we ran out of food. «

Luka summed up the Patagonian experience with words: »It was a great adventure with many unknown and unpredictable possibilities, in a wonderful environment and great company. It would be difficult to imagine a better outcome«.

Silvo Karo, an integral member of the threesome that lay out Diedro del Diabolo in 1983, commented the ascent with a statement: »I thank Luka and Tadej for clearing spiderwebs that have descended on out route in the past 30 years. They probably found some of our pitons and pieces of our fixed ropes in the Diedro… According to standards of today we had a very modest gear. Three decades of progress and today’s weather forecast foretell incredible chances. I am glad and proud of today’s achievement, which we can mark with a »Made in Slovenia« emblem.«

Photo by Krajnc and Krišelj.



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