Remoteness, chill and … mines

Prispeval Peter Mikša   
Torek, 15 Januar 2013 07:46


The new winter ascents in Velebit, Croatia.

The most famous of Croatian walls are probably the ones in Paklenica canyon. Similar larger and smaller walls, however, can be found across Dalmatia and along the entire Adriatic coast. Much of these walls have still been left untouched and due to their quality limestone they offer first rate chances for an excellent climbing. Even though Croatia does not have as high mountains as the countries in the Alpine region, remote mountain faces can be found mostly in Velebit area. These walls are not too difficult and they offer many chances for moderate winter climbs. In the last few weeks seven new routes have been set in the faces of Visočica and Čvrsnica.

visocica1Around New Year Rene Lisac and Krešimir Milas (AC Željezničar) have been climbing in Visočica. They have transferred their love for exploration mountain climbing to other members of their club and the second weekend of 2013 Visočica saw an invasion of mountain climbers. New routes climbed in Visočica are:

"Balerina" 70°, M4/50°, 300m (Rene Lisac and Krešimir Milas)

"Nagazna direkt" 55,M3/40, 220m (Lisac, Milas, Ratko Johan, Lada Lukinić, Matko Patekar),

"Zimski cvijet" 60, M3/45, 250m (Lisac, Milas, Johan, Lukinić, Patekar),

"Minski cvijet" 55, M3/45 180m (Milas, Johan),

"Baletana" 70, M4/50 280m (Lisac, Milas, Johan).

Two new routes have been established in Čvrsnica. At the end of 2012 Edo Retelj in Domagoj Laušić (AK Macaklin) have climbed "Kiflinu kosu rampu"55°, 300m. In January the new route »Alo, kusur momak!" D- (75-85/45-60, 300m) was added by Antonio Sunara and Željko Bockovac (SAK EXTREM).

The important thing to mention is that the chilly and windy winters as well as remoteness are not the only obstacle of climbing Velebit. Some parts, including the ones around Visočice, are still sown with mines, the remnants of the war that raged through the area less than 20 years ago. Anyone that is interested in these parts of Croatia is advised to gain sufficient information regarding the danger of mines.

Front piece photograph: Kiflina rampa, Čvrsnica (Retelj, Laušić, Rivero).

Photo by Retelj, Laušić, Riviero (Čvrsnica) and Lisac, Ferber (Visočica)

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